How to Choose the Right Carport for Your Property

Carports seem straightforward until you start shopping for one. Then the questions pile up: What width do I actually need? How high does it need to be for my truck? Do I want a flat roof or a gabled top? What about sides — open, closed, or somewhere in between?

Getting these decisions right before you order saves you time, money, and regret. Here is how to think through each one.

Step 1: Know What You Are Covering

Start with the vehicle or equipment that needs to fit underneath. Measure its width and height — and then add meaningful clearance on all sides, not just a few inches.

If you are covering a boat, camper, or RV, you will likely need 20’ wide or more — and height becomes critical. Measure your vehicle’s height with any roof-mounted equipment included, then add at least 18–24 inches of clearance for comfortable entry and exit.

Step 2: Leg Height Matters More Than You Think

Leg height is the distance from the ground to the bottom of the carport frame. Standard leg heights are typically 6’ or 7’, but taller options are available and are worth considering if you are parking anything higher than a standard passenger car.

A good rule of thumb: measure your tallest vehicle at its highest point, then add at least 12–18 inches. This gives you room to pull in and out without feeling like you are threading a needle.

Step 3: Roof Style — Flat, Boxed Eave, or Vertical

Metal carports come in three common roof profiles, and the choice affects both appearance and performance in wet weather.

• Flat (A-Frame Horizontal): The most budget-friendly option. The panels run horizontally. Fine in mild climates, but water and debris can collect at the seams in areas with heavy rain.
• Boxed Eave (A-Frame Horizontal with boxed ends): Same panel orientation but with a cleaner finished look at the eaves. More attractive than flat, similar price point.
• Vertical: Panels run vertically, which channels rain and debris off the roof efficiently. Best choice for Tennessee weather — the wet seasons here are real, and a vertical roof handles them significantly better. This is the style we recommend for most installations.

Step 4: Open, Closed, or Partially Enclosed?

Standard carports are open on all sides, which provides ventilation and keeps costs down. But adding side panels changes the structure significantly — both in protection and in price.

• Open sides: Maximum ventilation, lowest cost, easiest to drive through. Great for vehicles you use daily.
• One or two closed ends: Blocks wind-driven rain from a specific direction. Practical if your property has a prevailing wind pattern or your carport opens to a driveway.
• Fully enclosed with a walk door: At that point you are closer to a garage than a carport. Consider whether a metal garage might serve you better.

Step 5: Steel Gauge — 12 or 14?

Our metal carports are available in 12-gauge or 14-gauge steel framing. The lower the gauge number, the thicker the steel.

• 14 gauge: Solid and cost-effective for most residential applications. 10-year rust-through warranty on the frame.
• 12 gauge: Heavier-duty framing with a 20-year rust-through warranty. Recommended if you are in an area with significant snow load, covering heavier equipment, or want maximum longevity.

In Tennessee, most customers are well-served by 14-gauge framing. But if you are in a higher-elevation area that gets real snow, the 12-gauge option is worth considering.